Ski touring: mistakes to avoid when buying equipment

That’s the first question to ask.

• Recreational touring, i.e. uphill and downhill? If so, you’ll be looking for a versatile ski, with a good uphill/downhill compromise, so you can enjoy yourself in a variety of conditions (including on the slopes).
• Freerando, that is to say, nice powdery slopes with a not too long approach walk? Then you’ll be looking for a ski that “holds its own” on the descent, and weight will be of less importance.
• Fitness skiing, to keep you in shape as a traileur or marathon runner, even in winter? You’ll spend more time going up than going down, so lightness will be your priority!

This will enable you to narrow down the field of possibilities to two or three pairs of skis, which you can then test, ideally in a sufficiently short space of time to form an objective opinion in similar conditions (snow quality, visibility, fatigue…).

Given the success of the discipline, more and more second-hand touring skis are coming onto the market.

Two mistakes to avoid:

1. Buy used equipment that is more than 5 years old. Equipment has evolved enormously since then, and you may not be able to find spare parts if your bindings break…
2. Buy mounted skis without checking the compatibility of the bindings with your boots (inserts or not? Is the sole thick enough to take off your boots safely?)

There are two types of bindings: disengageable and with inserts. Be sure to check the construction of your boots before you check out: it would be a shame to buy bindings with inserts, only to realize when you get home… that your boots don’t have the famous inserts!

Your bindings should complement the qualities of your ski. For example, you’ll want to avoid large, disengageable bindings with an ultra-light ski, just as there’s no point in trying to lighten your wide ski with small bindings.

The final criterion to consider is how easy it is to put on and remove the climbing wedge with your pole.

All that’s left is to decide: for or against ski stops? Advantage: as their name suggests, they stop your skis if you take off your boots. Disadvantage: their weight.

Trick question: do you REALLY know your shoe size?

We’re often convinced that we’re wearing one or even two sizes larger than we actually are. However, even a half-size too big can turn your hiking dreams into a rather unpleasant experience… Blisters on the way up, lack of support (and therefore precision) on the way down: you’ll often manage to adapt to a poor choice of skis or bindings, but you’ll always bitterly regret a poor choice of boots…

A shoe works hard. They may seem tight when you first try them on in the store, but they’ll grow on you in just a few outings. The right thing to do: keep your shoes on for a good half-hour in the store before making your choice.

A tip for ladies with small feet: if you wear a size 22.5 or smaller, remember to reserve your shoes a season in advance. This way, the store can order them for you and ensure their availability, despite the small number of small sizes produced by the brands.

Rando or freerando? “Rando freeride” or “freeride rando”?

You choose your boots the same way you choose your skis: according to your activity. If you’re aiming for long runs with lots of ascents and descents, you’ll need lightweight boots. If, on the other hand, you prefer relatively short approach walks followed by large negative gradients, you’ll need boots that are comfortable on the descent, with good support. The choice today is enormous… Don’t hesitate to ask a specialist for advice: he’ll be able to help you solve this puzzle!

Did you know?

While there are three standards for sole thickness (alpine, grip walk and WTR), this is not the case for boot flex. Not only is it different from an alpine boot, it also varies from brand to brand. So much so that most brands don’t communicate on flex in pure rando, and less and less in freerando.

• 100% nylon: for beginners on a budget. Good climbing grip.
• Mixed (approx. 65% mohair and 35% nylon): the most versatile, for regular riders. Good glide on the way down and good grip on the way up.
• 100% mohair: for competitors and performance-oriented riders. Less grip on ascents, good glide on descents. Advantage: these skins take up very little space in the backpack. Disadvantage: they wear out faster…

When it comes to choosing between glued and glueless skins, it’s best to ask a specialist for advice. Are you looking for skins for everyday use? For competition? For travel in extreme conditions? He’ll be able to advise you according to your use!

It’s no secret that investment in touring is a step up from classic downhill skiing.

• For a pair of shoes, expect to pay between €350 (entry-level) and €700 (very high-end). The difference in price is mainly due to the materials used (e.g. plastic VS carbon).
• For a pair of bindings, expect to pay between €300 and €600, depending on the model.
• The price range is much narrower for skis: in the mass-market range, there’s generally no more than a hundred euros difference between a “beginner” ski (with little or no reinforcement) and a more advanced ski (more reinforced, therefore more demanding and better suited to a powerful skier).
• The big forgotten items are often the skins, even though their cost is far from insignificant (on average €150).

A good gift idea to ask Santa for?